As a study trip, I spent most of my time visiting housing projects (collective housing) throughout the city as well as parks, museums and other public and cultural buildings, etc. Walking through the streets is also an important aspect, as you get to see how the streets "work"; having many pedestrianized or pedestrian-friendly streets, Paris's streets have many varied functions. Also, sometimes you just have to sit in a cafe and see how the streets are working, cafe in hand.
It was interesting to re-visit the area in which I used to live, because I was able to start to grasp why it is that the 15th district really sucks. I still can't quite figure out the whole reason, but the lack of employment and activities contributes greatly to making this district a total bore (in my not-so-humble opinion).
On a similar note, we visited some interesting social housing projects on the outskirts of the city. Of note to me was that the design and layout wasn't actually so bad, but the total lack of maintenance plus the lack of facilities and activities seem to have really contributed greatly to the social and economic problems of the resident population as well as a general unhappiness with the living conditions. Although the problems I noted in the 15th were greatly exacerbated in the social housing projects, I did see a connection in the lack of activity and economy there.
I lost my wallet on our first day there, and had a not-so-fun half-day trying to track it down (I must be delusional to think I could find it again in such a crazy city), and then reporting it at the police station. At a low point I declared that I never wanted to return to Paris. But, that opinion changed quickly when we had a fantastic dinner. My selection of lamb with goat cheese and spinach proved the most fabulous choice. I ate more duck than I thought possible, which made me really happy; pastries still run through my blood; my pores might start to excrete chocolate.
I visited one lovely lovely little market, Marche des Enfants Rouges (red children? communist? I dunno), where we got some absolutely fantastic crepes, and where I got to stare at food for a few hours, which always makes me happy as can be. :)
